The Streets of Kathmandu

The area of Western Maine where we live has a population density of less than 25 people per square mile. The population density of Kathmandu is over 25,000 people per square mile! To say the least, it took awhile to get over a sense of claustrophobia -- which is only heightened by the narrow streets and alleys that make up the majority of Kathmandu's thoroughfares It's taken us a full two weeks and about 65 miles of walking to learn to flow with the crowds and traffic. The trick is to keep moving, be politely assertive, always look both ways multiple times before crossing a street, be predictable (no sudden moves), and place more trust in the drivers than you really want.

The purpose of the non-stop honking, we've discovered, is to alert other vehicles and pedestrians that they're about to be passed. The car or motorbike then assumes that you will either move aside or at least maintain your bearing and speed until it can get around you. It might pass within inches, but that's when you have to have faith in the driver. Only once in two weeks did we see a pedestrian come close to getting creamed, and we've seen no collisions. There is obviously a method to the madness.

In the eastern half of the city, where we live, it is very unusual to see Westerners; they tend to congregate in the tourists areas of Thamel and Durbar Square. But even so, people on the street don't seem to pay much attention to us aside from an occasional stolen glance. Nepalis whom I have met in person have been very friendly, but Nepalis on the street are not inclined to smile or strike up a conversation with us, but that's true of any big city in the U.S., too. It probably doesn't help that I'm six-four and tend to look more serious than I really am. Bonnie found out yesterday, when she went to a few nearby shops, that people open up more to her when she's by herself. I guess I can be a little intimidating.

I've had to modify my impression of urban Kathmandu since that first shell-shocked 10-minute drive from the airport. Dire poverty certainly exists, but the vast majority of people you pass on the street appear healthy and meticulously clean despite the ever present mud of the monsoon season. There are far more younger than older people and most either wear school uniforms or the same casual clothes that any American teenager would wear. Occasionally, a girl will wear something a bit more revealing than we were led to believe was "acceptable" by Nepali standards, but that's all likely due to quickly changing attitudes brought on by Western TV and advertising. I've seen Britney Spears' midriff at least ten times on bar signs and T-shirts since I've been here.

Beggars are mostly concentrated in the tourist areas, on the wide sidewalks of main roads, and on the pedestrian overpasses on Durbar Marg and Kanti Path. Most will be sitting and quietly ask for money as you pass, but some are more active and even recruit their young children to help. We passed by one little girl, no older than 4 or 5, who was obviously pretending to cry in an effort to tug on the heartstrings of passers by. Giving money to the truly destitute (the very old, lepers, and the blind) is something you see many Nepalis do, but we've been told not to give money to street children because they will often spend it on glue to sniff. It's better to donate to a charity that can help them. At Hindu temple sites, such as Durbar Square, holy men in bright robes roam around asking for money or want to be paid after volunteering to pose for a photo. They can be very insistent and will follow you for several minutes hoping to wear you down. My small donation to one was met with a request for more. Because of that, I prefer to visit Buddhist temples where the monks are much more laid back. They welcome donations but don't actively seek them.

There is also quite a bit of hard selling here. Perhaps it's considered "active marketing" by the locals, but taxi drivers, rickshaw drivers, and some shopkeepers and street vendors will be very insistent and sometimes follow you down the street. I'm trying to learn to ignore it all and not let it get under my skin.

We have yet to feel unsafe or threatened anywhere we've been so far, and we've walked through some pretty grungy alleys. The security officer at the US Embassy who gave us a briefing last week said that the streets are pretty safe as long as you're not inebriated late at night trying to find your way home in a strange part of town. A group of young men might take advantage of the situation and relieve you of your money. Violent crime is rare. Yesterday we went out at night for the first time and, despite the dearth of street lighting, we felt very safe walking to and from the Thamel District. Of course, it was raining like hell and no person in their right mind would be outside!