Christmas party in Kathmandu

When we throw a party in the U.S., we’re lucky if half the people we invite show up. But that rule of thumb doesn’t seem to hold true in Nepal. We invited 50 to our Christmas party and 41 showed up!

We invited the entire staff of the Fulbright Commission office, all of the Fulbright professors and students currently based in Kathmandu, my colleagues in the Biotechnology Department at Kathmandu University some of my KU students, our landlady, plus spouses and kids.

Sachin, his wife and his sister came over early to help with some cooking and to set out the food. I had whipped up two big pots of vegetarian chili the day before and got them heated up while Sachin’s wife started cooking rice. We hadn’t planned on making any rice but Sachin said, “This is Nepal. People expect rice.” Our spread also included 80 samosas, 4 lbs of cheese, 4 loaves of French bread, fresh veggies, snacks, two cakes, 2 cases of Corona, 14 bottles of wine, vodka, and a bottle of rum for any pirates who might show up unannounced.

When the sun went down, I began distributing and lighting candles on all three levels of our apartment, including the terrace on the roof, because the power went off at 4:30 and wouldn’t come back on again until 8:30. I also put three candles on the second floor balcony railing as a guide to our apartment.

Promptly at 6:00, people began to arrive. We had to open the compound gates to let in three cars and half a dozen motorbikes. Three or four groups got lost in the dark and phoned for directions. Sachin and I took turns going out into the alley and street to flag them down. By 6:30 the lower level of the apartment was completely filled, and a few people were braving the evening chill on the roof.

I had to spend the next hour and a half stirring and serving my chili. Everyone had come in from the cold and wanted something to warm them up. I had put in a little extra chili powder because Nepalis like food with a kick to it. I got rave reviews on the chili and many requests for my “secret” recipe which Bonnie had found on the internet a few weeks before.

The food and the booze really loosened people up. By 8:00 the place was hoppin’ and everyone seemed to be having a great time. The chili was all gone by then so I could mill around, take photos and talk to everyone. Deepak, one of my graduate students, told me that he really liked the Corona beer. I told him that I love Mexican beer. Without missing a beat he responded, “I love Mexican girls!” I told him that he and I would have to take a road trip to Mexico someday. I can see him now: sombrero on his head, a bottle of beer in one hand, and a pretty senorita on his lap.

Several people brought gifts for Christmas and for my birthday, but a very special one came from Deepak, Prajwal and Keshab (the three students in my graduate course). They took my photo to an artist friend who painted a wonderful portrait of me in blazing colors. It was fantastic! When the power came on at 8:30 we turned on the stereo and the dancing began in the kitchen. Prajwal, of course, was the instigator of that – he loves to dance. He even got Bonnie to spin around a few times.

The last of the party goers left at 10:30. Bonnie and I quickly put all the leftover food away, moved furniture back in place, and blew out the candles. I went straight to bed at 11:30, but Bonnie stayed up until 1:00 enjoying the quiet while sipping on a well deserved glass of vodka.